Only 18 days to until Rocklands, South Africa!
Project Update: Combat Wombat V11
I’m getting super close to sending my first 8a. Since this V11 is the easiest thing in the crag, I had to warm up on various parts of it in the morning. While I was fresh, the last half of the problem seemed (I’m going to say it) EASY. I found that I was climbing really well that day: clean footwork, not overgripping, breathing, calm and focused. It is how aimed to try to climb everytime I get on rock or plastic.
I don’t find any move on this climb to be difficult but doing all 19 relatively power moves really gets me. Having so many moves, I find that it really daunts me knowing that if I fall I will have to do all the moves again. For a year now Ive been falling off on the 15 or 16th move but since first getting on this, I KNOW that my technique has improved so much in the last year.
I have not been doing much endurance training but rather alot of power training as I find that from videos the Rocklands does not have many long boulder problems. I suppose when I’m cutting laps on CW it could be my enduro training for the trip.
Me falling off near the end:
Low Boogie Knights V9:
Finally sent this mother after a few months of trying. I did the original problem a year ago on my 5th try and its taken this long to get the extension. I always found that the small edge that you need to hang onto to do the hard move got really spoogey. The lower ledges on the extension tended to feel damp most of the time as well but on the day of the send the conditions were PERFECT: we had really cool temps and a nice wind all day.
Now onto working on El Koo Koo and Akhtar (hardest V6 in the world).
My mate Rob also doing Low Down Boogie on the same day:
